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Monthly Archives: October 2013
Hilltop Stylists
Special thanks to Cassie Mlynarek for putting together the first Hilltop Stylists video
Airports: The New Trend Testing Frontier
By Morgan O’Hare
It’s a Tuesday evening in early October and I’m stuck in the airport in Charlotte, N.C. I’m sitting Indian-style on the carpet next to my sister at Gate C4 when my eyes do a full scan of her unusual ensemble. She is adorned in capri yoga pants, a giant sweatshirt, and thong sandals with socks on. Yes, you read that correctly. She has on neon green and blue socks with her sandals.
I must look away. I spot see a woman a few feet away, wearing 7 ½ inch patent leather platforms, a mid-length dress and a fitted blazer. It boggled my mind that my sister and this woman were in such close proximity to each other with the most polar opposite styles of dress. It was at this point in my life that I arrived at a truth of epic proportions: Airports are the only judgment-free zone where you can literally wear whatever you want and anything goes.
I was eager to get to the root of why airports are alternate universes of stylistic free expression. Why did I not have the slightest care in the world that my sister, Brooke O’Hare, looked borderline homeless? If we had been walking around Highland Park Village, I would be mortified to be seen with her. I’d be walking a few paces in front of her to avoid the concerned glances at my genetic counterpart.
I asked Brooke about why styles at airports vary so greatly. “People are so focused on getting to their destinations, no one cares. Some dress for comfort, and others don’t have time to change from the plane to go to wherever they are going.”
Fast-forward a few weeks, and I am stepping off a plane in Las Vegas. I’m sporting black skinny jeans, black combat boots, a Sex Pistols tee, backwards black baseball cap, and a gold choker. I looked as if I were running late for a sound check at the MGM Grand with the rest of my headlining rock band nowhere to be found. And I’m not gonna lie, I was loving it.
As I met up with my best friend, Grace Merck, at baggage claim, she looked at my outfit with a smile. “You look like a celeb,” she said to me as I tried to hide my excitement and normal-girl reality behind my big sunglasses. “You love airport outfits.” And I thought to myself: Yes, you’re right! I really do love airport outfits. Why? Because I can be whomever I want to be.
Mary Bartholemew, an employee at Southwest Airlines, explains that anything goes as far as dress in the airport. “I see every type of outfit in the world you can think of in here,” she said.
So if airports really are these mystical buildings of no judgment, why aren’t we using them as the ultimate testing grounds for every trend we’re too scared to try in public?
As someone who picks an airport persona and goes for it without hesitation, I have a pearl of advice: If you are one of those girls who is too intimidated to take fashion risks, do it the next time you fly. Make a statement with those harem pants you purchased while studying abroad, or dress like you’re a long lost member of Rihanna’s entourage by throwing on those Timberlands, ID chain necklaces, and a backwards snapback.
Embrace your creative side, because someone is probably watching you pass through security, wishing she had.
The Tote: An SMU must have
By Morgan O’Hare and Stacy Radley
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The most crucial item for an SMU girl to own today, it seems, is an upscale tote bag. Walking down the boulevard, you can see a wide range of sizes, brands and colors. From the Louis Vuitton Neverfull to colorful Longchamp’s, these bags, which carry books and more, are as much about making a statement as they are about performing a necessary task.
Some girls personalize their bags with a colorful scarf, ribbon or sorority pin on the handle. Flaunting price is not the purpose of these bags because you will see them ranging from thrift-store scores to 21st-birthday presents from the parents.
Girls’ totes at SMU reflect the owner’s personality and style — so show us what you’ve got!
SMU’s Most Fashionable Teachers
By Caroline Hicks
SMU has always had a reputation for fashion-forward students, but it’s not just the students who are hitting the boulevard like it’s a runway. Teachers dress to impress as well, finding ways to incorporate their personal style into business appropriate outfits for the workplace.
Professor Jasper Neel, Ph.D.
Every semester, students race to Access SMU to enroll in The World of Shakespeare, which fulfills the university curriculum’s Literature perspective. On the first day of the course, Professor Jasper Neel tells the class, with complete seriousness, that they may not enjoy his teaching, but they will appreciate his clothing.
Neel has been teaching at SMU since 1997. He wears suits daily, which he happily describes to his students. “Before discussing the lecture template for class the other day, he started telling us how well his suit was cut and describing it in detail,” said junior Emmie Skinner.
Neel began his career as an assistant professor at Baylor and then at NYU, where he was expected to dress in suits, and continues to do so to this day. He has a personal rule when it comes to his wardrobe: “Buy nothing new without getting rid of something old.”
His one weakness when it comes to fashion, he says, are his man purses. “I have four,” he said. “When my daughter was a student at SMU she once commented that I was the only male faculty member on campus who carried a purse. Why am I the only man on campus who easily sees the advantage of carrying a purse?”
This unique style choice makes Neel stand out as a man who is not afraid to be himself when he picks his outfits.
Professor Morgan Ward, Ph.D.
A young and energetic professor of Marketing and Consumer Behavior, Morgan Ward, is known for bringing some spunk into the professional business attire seen in the Cox School of Business. She describes her style as “polished professional meets eclectic.”
“I like clean lines and vibrant colors but I’m also an avid vintage clothing collector,” she said. “I like to mix and match pieces from different decades.
Business student Caroline Maples appreciates Ward’s unique style, recalling her “knee-length, tailored skirts with tights, fitted dresses accentuated with a belt, and ability to pull off a neck scarf without aging her style.”
Through her clothing choices, Ward says, she wants to express that “I’m a professional, but I also want to appear accessible and express my own point of view.”
Ward balances her wardrobe by pairing bargains like stretch jeans from Target with more expensive items like a Prada taffeta skirt she purchased last year and “absolutely cherishes.” She stresses shopping more for the silhouette than the brand itself, but appreciates designers such as Bill Blass and Chanel from the ‘60s, and Ferragamo from the ‘70s.
Style icons for Ward include classics such as Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy, however, she also admires fashion blogger Wendy Nguyen of Wendy’s Lookbook. “If I could steal and wear all of Wendy’s teeny tiny clothing, I would.”
Y’all ready for this? Karl Lagerfeld is coming to Dallas
By Melanie Galindo
A light snow drifted down on patrons seated in the hard wooden seats at Scotland’s Lithlinglow Castle last December as they watched the Chanel-clad models parade past. Wrapped in heavy winter coats normally checked at the door, the well-heeled audience braved the weather to experience Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld’s Métiers d’Art show.
Known for their extravagant settings in exotic locations, the shows have previously been featured in such sites as Versailles, Paris, Venice, Moscow, and, yes, even the ruins of Lithlinglow Palace in Edinburgh.
So what destination is next on this grand-scale list? Dallas. As in Texas. Reported by Women’s Wear Daily and confirmed by Vogue, Chanel’s Dallas Métiers d’Art show will take place Tuesday, Dec. 10, in our own backyard.
History of Métiers d’Art
With stylish excitement building by the day, now is the time to explore the history behind this unparalleled annual show and the precedent that it will set for Dallas. Métiers d’Art isn’t just a fancy way of distinguishing the collection. The phrase (pronounced may-tee-yay) is derived from the French word mestier and the Latin word ministerium, signifying that an atelier skilled in the art of craftsmanship worked on the collection.
In 1997, Chanel acquired eight Parisian specialty ateliers. With this acquisition, the iconic design house set out to support and preserve fashion’s traditional way of craftsmanship. The original group consisted of a wide variety of specialty artisans ranging from metalworkers to floral and feather accessory experts.
Lagerfeld founded the Métiers d’Art show in 2002 as a means of showcasing these couture craftsmen in a runway setting as opulent as their designs. In doing so, he paved the way for the modern trend of hyper-luxury by featuring products that are rare, ultra-exclusive and unapologetically expensive. Lagerfeld’s 2002 launch of the Métiers d’Art show also marked the beginning of the fashion world’s explosive obsession with pre-collections.
Prior to Métiers d’Art, a fashion house would traditionally release two collections each year – spring and fall. However, the rise and immediate global obsession with Chanel’s December special productions enticed other major fashion houses to follow Lagerfeld’s footsteps with their own pre-fall collections.
The locations for Métiers d’Art shows are equally as important as the fashion. Each year Lagerfeld pays homage to cities that have contributed to the growth and history of Chanel. The clothes shown are inspired by the culture of each locale — and often more wearable than haute couture.
The story behind Chanel’s love affair with Scotland
Former residence of the Stuarts and birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots, Lithlingow Palace in Edinburgh was the site of the December 2012 Métiers d’Art show. Why Linlithgow Palace? Scotland is the place where Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself fell in love, in more ways than one. In 1924, Coco Chanel entered a relationship with the then Duke of Westminster. Much of their time was spent in the Sutherland region of the Scottish Highlands where they would fish, hunt and play cards.
Before meeting the Duke, Chanel used Scottish wool, preferably from the Shetland Islands, in her atelier. As the romance between the Duke and Chanel blossomed, so did the influence of yet more Scottish materials and traditions – particularly the tweeds and Fair Isle sweaters worn by the Duke as he hunted and fished.
Chanel’s iconic tweed, or bouclé as it is better known, was a result of Coco’s experimentation with the traditional woolen cloth, hand-woven by the inhabitants of the Highlands. After seeing it on the Duke, Coco began using it for sporting outfits, suits and coats. Her French weavers lamented its poor quality and tendency to fault and “buckle,” but Coco loved its irregularity. And so her signature tweed was born.
She also introduced the use of tartan, a traditional checked fabric used by Scottish clans to signify their family allegiance, and the classic geometric Fair Isle pattern. Under Lagerfeld’s direction, Scottish tweed, Fair Isle knits and tartan have continued to be used.
“Chanel, Inc., definitely incorporates their history into the workplace. Everything they do they try to relate it back to Gabrielle Chanel and her life,” said Demi Stanley, SMU Fashion Media student who spent this past summer interning in the Communications department at Chanel corporate headquarters in New York.
The paid tribute to Scotland for serving as a constant inspiration for her iconic tweed creations, cardigans and knitwear. Illustrating its historical significance to the brand, the show was the grandest “thank you” possible to the country as a whole.
And next? Dallas, Texas
This December, history will repeat itself when Lagerfeld brings his stunning thanks to America, by way of Texas. Entitled The Return, the upcoming collection will be inspired by Chanel’s U.S. success in the 1950s.
“To do the opposite, next time, I will go to Dallas,” said Lagerfeld. “You know why? First of all, I love Texas. I love Texans. There’s another reason. When Chanel reopened, the French press was beyond nasty. The only press that understood it immediately was the American press – so I think it’s a nice thing to go there.”
When the house of Chanel reopened its doors after World War II, the French shunned it. However, Dallas-based retailer Neiman Marcus warmly welcomed the luxury brand’s grand return. Thus, our city gets the direct compliment of hosting the next Chanel Métiers d’Art show.
“It’s all been kept very under wraps by Chanel HQ so I don’t know any real details,” said Daniela Hernandez, intern for Chanel Dallas.
Regardless, all eyes will be on Dallas come Dec. 10, as the biggest names in the fashion world meet right at our doorstep, allowing Dallas to continue its growth as an established fashion city.
“I think it takes a lot more than just one event to turn a city into a ‘fashion capital,’ said Christina Geyer, Managing Editor of FD Luxe. “but the Chanel show will certainly put Dallas in the international fashion spotlight, if just for a few days. I would argue that even though it isn’t New York or Paris, Dallas is an incredibly well respected city when it comes to fashion. It is known as a city where people are still spending a lot of money on fashion — this is why you see designers coming in to town on a regular basis and why a mega fashion house like Chanel would show a collection here in the first place.”
In a way, Texas as the next host of the Métiers d’Art show makes sense. While Dallas may not have global luxury recognition of a city like New York, thanks to oil fortunes, a thriving investment management industry, and a number of blue-chip corporations headquartered in the city, Dallas creates the strong consumer buying power necessary for success in the fashion industry.
Plus everything is bigger here, right? And no one does fashion bigger than Lagerfeld. Maybe we’ll finally get to see Chanel’s take on the cowboy boot and hat.
Colors of the Runway
By Ashley Gross
The Root of the Problem
The colors on Fashion Weeks runways are duller than ever – and no, I’m not talking about the colors of thread.
The models strutting down the runway during Fashion Week worldwide look too much alike – long-limbed, longhaired, with perfect fair skin. These models are the visual representation of what brands believe they stand for. In this melting pot of a world we live in, you would think all ethnicities would be pictured on the runway, and abundantly at that. Unfortunately, that is not the case.
At a Modeling Agency
Lack of diversity within the fashion world is extremely prevalent, now more than ever. Brenda Gomez, co-owner of Wallflower Management modeling agency in Dallas, agrees that race is discriminated against in the modeling world. “Race absolutely does matter when booking a model…and it’s sad,” says Gomez.
Lindsay Webb, the booker at Wallflower Management, has to face the issue directly by telling the agency’s ethnic models that they’re not landing the jobs simply because of their skin color. “I’ve had to have many conversations with our diverse models about how the client can’t use them because of their race. It’s so hard to do,” says Webb.
Whether it is because the brand booking the models to showcase their pieces must uphold a strong, neutral image, or because the clothes that season look best on a certain skin tone, models are not racially diverse enough. The standard darker colors of fall and winter happen to complement fair skin, whereas the bright and loud colors of spring and summer pop on darker skin. Although this may give ethnic models more opportunities during warm weather seasons, the edge is minimal.
One Dallas fashion photographer says this problem is more pronounced on the runway than elsewhere in the fashion world. According to Courtney Laddimore, “There is a noticeable lack of diverse models on the runway, more so than in editorial (content).” As a black man in the fashion world himself, Laddimore keeps an eye out for equality on the runway. “You see the same black, Asian and other ethnic models on the runway,” he says. “Once they find one they like that fits their brand, they stop looking for more.”
From a photographer’s perspective, Laddimore says, as long as a girl is confident, her race won’t matter too much. “A great model will always stand out no matter what.”
The Statistics
Jezebel, a blog that keeps tabs on the fashion industry, has recorded the diversity among models on the runway for the past five years. In the spring 2013 shows, 79.4 percent of models were white, 8.1 percent were black, 10.1 percent were Asian, and 1.9 percent were Latina. These numbers showed more diversity than the years prior, but when the results for the fall 2013 shows came in, the number of white models jumped back up to 82.7 percent.
As I browse through the photos of the 2013 Chloé runway shows on Style.com, I notice the same girl strutting in one photo after the other. Long blond hair, long thin legs – and the same sexy pout. It’s sad that it startled me to see two black models strut out toward the end of the show. They were both wearing the darkest colored clothing of all the models.
A Possible Reason
Tammy Theis, co-owner of Wallflower Management modeling agency agrees that there is a lack of diversity, and she can see how the industry plays a role in this. “Typically, Asian girls are not tall enough to fit the industry standards,” says Theis. “Models from the Middle East are hard to find because their culture is different from typical American culture. Their families are very strict when it comes to what their kids are wearing and how they portray themselves to the world.”
Theis believes that it all comes down to the way a brand wants to show itself to the world. “It’s all a business in the end, and they are going to use models that best represent what they stand for,” says Theis. “Unfortunately a lot of the time that is the typical tall, stick-thin Caucasian model.”
An African American Model’s Perspective
Mimi Roche may be based in Dallas, but this mega-model has an impressive résumé from all around the world. As the face of the September 2006 edition of Italian Vogue, Roche no doubt encompasses what it takes to be on top. “It’s nice to say you’ve been on the cover of Italian Vogue,” says Roche. “I did not know I was going to get the cover at the time, and I was in complete shock.”
Roche says that her race has presented both advantages and disadvantages for her in the business. “In fashion, unfortunately, there are not many positions for any other race besides Caucasian.” She has gone to many castings and been rejected solely because of her race. “A lot of designers prefer to see their works on fair skin, and that’s not something I can give.”
When she began her career in 2000, Roche says, her skin color was actually an advantage because there were so few black models. However, even when she was booked for a show, Roche found that she was often treated differently from the white models.
“I’ve done a show where they’ve whited-out my whole face. It wasn’t until after the show when I realized it was only the black girls who had their faces painted,” says Roche. “I opened and closed that show, too.”
At the end of the day, models are just one part of a trillion-dollar, international business. She says that when it comes to the work, all models, no matter what race or ethnicity, are “just models-we don’t exist as real people.” And as professionals, they are expected to set their emotions aside to get the work done. “For me personally, God is the reason I’ve landed the jobs I have,” she adds. “Being a model has been more of a gift than a talent.”
Mimi Roche would like to see other girls like her make their dreams a reality. She has a heart for counseling and a whole lot of experience, and she would like to see this issue addressed more seriously, so that our world is represented more fairly on the runway. Before I left the interview, she told me, “I didn’t know if you were going to be a white girl, black or Asian – it’s nice to know people care.”
Unleash your wild side with FLORABOTANICA
By Caroline Hicks
The temperatures are dropping but there’s a way to hold onto the scents of summer with Balenciaga’s unique fragrance Florabotanica. This natural fragrance is perfect for the last few weeks of warm weather in Dallas, and will allow you to infuse floral scents into the upcoming winter months.
The perfume consists of rare ingredients such as mint, carnation, hybrid rose, caladium leaves, amber and vetiver. Actress Kristen Stewart is the face of the fragrance, representing the unique combination of floral femininity and risk-taking seductiveness that is Florabotanica.
The fragrance is geared towards a younger audience, perfect for college students wanting a fresh scent for everyday use. In addition to the perfume, it comes in perfumed body care products such as lotion and shower gel. All of the products can be purchased at Sephora and department stores such as Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus.
A Shocking Love Affair
By Emily Sims
As a person who is constantly buying beauty products and devouring beauty blogs in search of the next big thing, I have found a product of ultimate perfection. I can say with utmost confidence that this isn’t a short-lived bout of lust but a fully committed love affair.
Meet the Yves Saint Laurent Eyeliner Effet Faux Clis Felt-tip Shocking Eyeliner Pen, the best eyeliner I’ve ever used. Why am I so obsessed? This eye pen allows for absolute precision when applying. It won’t smudge and dries almost as soon as you put it on. Not to mention the intense black color makes quite the statement.
It’s like a calligraphy pen for your eyes and the shape of the pen’s tip means no amount of detail is impossible or even difficult. With regular liquid eyeliner, cat eyes could be a difficult technique to execute. I would always end up using an extensive amount of q-tips to make sure the shapes were similar on each eye. However, since the purchase of my YSL eyeliner pen, cat eyes are effortless and applying regular top-lid eyeliner is almost graceful. A swift flick of the pen results in an even, perfectly sized stroke of liner.
Never have I ever received more comments on something I didn’t think anyone noticed, my eyeliner! But after using the YSL eyeliner pen, it’s the part of my makeup I get complimented on most. And now all of my friends are using it and are equally obsessed. Luckily for them, the YSL eyeliner pen and I never agreed to be exclusive.
A MAGAZINE: Fashion’s Chicest Glossy
By Ashley Wali
Antwerp’s A Magazine is so much more than a magazine. The bi-annual Belgian tome walks the fine line of magazine and collector’s book, with sublime layouts that weave a vibrant tapestry of fashion. The secret behind its appeal lies in its subtitle—Curated By.
Each eclectic issue explores the artistic sphere of a chosen fashion designer, who curates intimate content for the magazine that details their aesthetic inspiration. A Magazine’s debut issue in November 2004 was curated by sartorial heavyweight Martin Margiela and the May 2013 issue by Stephen Jones, fashion’s favorite milliner.
An alluring centerfold of Dita Von Teese, Nick Knight’s floral Christmas cards and Zaha Hadid’s designs are only a few of the pieces from Jones’ installation. The British milliner scoured his urbane Rolodex for the issue’s title, which features sketches by the likes of Raf Simons and Marc Jacobs. Dedicated to Italian fashion writer Anna Piaggi, the issue is a phantasmagoric ode to the art of illustration.